Fiordland and Bad Luck

After returning back to Invercargill, the only thing that we could think of was spagetti sauce that we had bottled before we left ChCh. So we have only refuelled and topped up our food supplies and headed to our freedom camping site near Thornbury. The following day we decided to have a rest day so we repacked all car and left the site after 1pm. The route to our chosen camping site was short and we have stopped only for lunch in surfing heaven, Colac Bay. For the night we have settled near Monkey Island. Former whaling site, the island is only accesible during low tide. As we arrived a bit late we have to take our shoes off when returing back to the beach. The place was breathtaking. A beautiful beach and during the sunset we have managed to take some amazing pictures. We felt so good there that we have stayed until early afternoon, just relaxing on the beach. 

Later that day we stopped at Tuatapere, sausage town and also the base for Hump Ridge Track. The track is privately owned and the price of the three-day track had been increased to $135pp. This is a bit over our budget...so no hump ridge even though it was in our plans:-(. However, we at least picked up a map to Clifton Caves, a great surprise on the way. The caves were even in the maps of early European settlers as 'must see' attraction so we had to have a go as well. And it was worth it. In Czech my only caving experience was through a guided, well paved tour. This was completely different experience. There was no one around, only us and our torches. It was scary at times, especially when you see a huge rock above your head just hanging between two other or when you had to go on your knees to crawl under cave formations. I was quite lucky as I have managed to get through just with muddy shoes and trousers. But Luky end up with one leg inside 'a swimming pool', patchy word:-). Our experince could only be expressed by 'That was just amazing!'. 

On the way to the campsite near Lake Haruko, the deepest lake in NZ (462m deep) I have realized how much I love mountains and how much I missed them in England. We were approaching Fiordland and the views were breathtaking. The Haruko campsite was also next to a deer park. Deers were brought to NZ by European settlers and Zealanders are now trying intensely to diminish their numbers because they are pests in NZ nature. And as it is deers' rooting period now (April in NZ is same as October in Europe) we could hear the males making their weird noises all night.

So after 'a good' night sleep we left to explore Lake Haruko and later Lake Monowai. There we had another night feeling close to the nature. During teeth brushing a possum was chasing his pray just meters away from us, then the whole night we had to deal with never ending number of mosquitoes, and in the morning we witnessed a fly fighting for its life with wasp, and in the end both of them were eaten by Tomtit. What a truly natural experience!

The next day we have reach Manapouri, the base for Doubtful Sound cruises. In Oban I have found an advert for Real Journeys discount for locals. Even though it was only for Otago, Southland & Fiordland residents I have mention it asking if we can be considered even as ChCh residents (did not mention that we have moved out of course) and it worked! We got discount over $100! So that was my small victory and we could treat ourselves to a packed lunch during the cruise and lunch at local cafe:-).

The cruise was great. With the weather being fine for over a week, we have not managed to see many waterfalls that Fiorlands is so famous for, but that is something that we did not mind. 

Firstly we had to cross Lake Manapouri by just three month old ship. The sky was becoming clear again so we could take some great pictures. As as the cruise was with Real Journeys again we could treat ourselves to a free coffee. After arrival into West Arm we change a mode of transfer to bus and headed on 22km long Wilmot Pass Road to Deep Cove (number of inhabitants=1). 

Bus drivers were also our guides so the journey was informative and the scenery was what else than beautiful. Deep Cove was only another harbor so it took only few minutes and we were again on the ship. Doubtful Sound is actually a fiord (created by glacier, sound is created by river). It has the perfect habitat for marine life so we managed to see rare bottlenose dolphins and large colony of fur seals. in one of the arms, the captain switched off engines and we were in complete silence, calming experience in comparison with our noisy everyday lives. 

On our way back we have stopped in West Arm Underground Power Station. A weird experience to be so deep under the surface. Since Invercargill we saw evidence of the existence of this power station. Starting from the aluminum smelter in Bluff, which the power is mainly aimed for, dangerous road across the mountains near Lake Monowai or notes of huge campaign that prevented increasing the water level of lake Manapouri. Overall, even though it almost cost us like a week on Stewart Island the cruise was an experience for life and well worth it.

And that was the end of our luck in Fiordland. Before the cruise we were checking internet for Kepler Track as it is Great Walk and huts must be booked in advance. To our disappointment it was almost fully booked (later on we learned that there were three big groups tramping Kepler around that time). So the only option for us to walk the track clockwise which is harder and in three rather than four days. After the cruise we have decided to the three day option. However, when we tried to book it an error occurred and as we did not have coverage in our campsite the following day even this option was booked. The error occurred again when we tried to book hut for only one night which would allow us to spend at least one day above the bush line. After a run to DOC we managed to secure the booking in the end. 

While waiting for the track we headed to Milford Sound. We did not paid for the cruise so we had a quick walk around the shore of the sound, take pictures of Mitre Peak and headed back as it is nothing more to do there. On the other hand, Milford Highway was full of small stops and walks. The best one was Key Point track that allows you to walk above bush line in less than three hours return. As the weather was still good we had some great views and we even extended the track by walking along the ridge on an unmarked route.

After return to Te Anau I could not wait to walk the Kepler. First day we had to walk up to the ridge so most of 13km was just climbing. But the track was in almost perfect condition and very well planned so it was relatively quick ascent for us. Lukas even managed to have a quick bath in the lake. Once we had reached Luxmore Hut (1085m) there was a treat for us in form of nearby caves that we could explore. The following day we have walked along the ridge. We climbed Mt Luxmore (1472m) and at Forest Burn Saddle we had to turn back as we had to get back to the car before dawn. I was so sad to turn as ridges are my favorite part of tramping but there were other ridge tracks that we had planned so it wasn't that bad.

To continue with our bad luck, when we were returning from Milford Sound the car started to make weird noises so after return from Kepler track (Wednesday) the first stop was a mechanic. It was a damaged drive shaft and it had to be replaced. New part should arrived on Friday. So we had to wait. It was fine, on Friday we could be in Queenstown and carry on with traveling. 

But it didn't arrive! In NZ small town nothing happens during the weekend so we were happy to follow DOC suggestion and tramp around lake Manapouri for two days. There we met two fishermen that even brought with them a generator so they could have a proper light in the hut:-). On Monday the part did arrive but faulty and it was not even a correct size. I thought by nerves are gone! Tuesday the mechanic was not there and on Wednesday the news was that the correct part will arrive on Thursday. We were already waiting for eight days so we were really angry. So we decided to leave Te Anau and take a risk of driving 120km to Queenstown...